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Shawl pattern


This is such a pretty shawl! I got the pattern HERE


Lace Triangle Shawl With Picot Hem Knitting Pattern


Designed by Gail Tanquary

Beautiful triangle shawl knit in a challenging lace pattern featuring a delicate picot hem.


Gauge:

20 sts = 4 inches in St st before blocking.


Materials:

Size 7 US (4.5 mm) 36" circular needle
2 balls Panda Silk DK by Crystal Palace Yarns
Color #2510 Frosted Rosewater
120 yards/50 grams
52% bamboo/43% superwash merino wool/5% combed silk

See this listing for a shop near you.


Sk2P sl 1, k2tog, psso



Instructions

CO 10 sts and knit one row.
Continue as follows:

Row 1: K4, yo, k1, place marker, k1, yo, k4
Row 2: K3, yo, p to last 3 sts, yo, k3
Row 3: K3, yo, k to 1 st before marker, yo, k1, sl marker, k1, yo, k to last 3 sts, yo, k1
Row 4: K3, yo, p to last 3 sts, yo, k3

Rep Rows 3 and 4 until there are 25 sts on each side of the marker.


Begin lace pattern:
Row 1: K3, yo, k2, *k2, yo, ssk, k2* to 2 sts before marker, k1, yo, k1, sl marker, k1, yo, k2, rep between * to 4 sts before end, k1, yo, k3
Row 2 and all WS rows: K3, yo, p to last 3 sts, yo, k3
Row 3: K3, yo, k4, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1* to 3 sts before marker, k2, yo, k1, sl marker, k1, yo, k3, rep between * to last 6 sts, k3, yo, k3
Row 5: K3, yo, k5, k2tog, yo, *k3, yo, sk2p, yo* to 9 sts before center, k3, yo, ssk, k3, yo, k1, sl marker, k1, yo, k3, k2tog, yo, rep between * to 13 sts before end, k3, yo, ssk, k5, yo, k3
Row 6: K3, yo, p to last 3 sts, yo, k3
Row 7: K3, yo, k to 1 st before center marker, yo, k1, sl marker, k1, yo, k to last 3 sts, yo, k3
Rows 9 and 11: Rep Row 7
Row 12: K3, yo, p to last 3 sts, yo, k3

Rep Rows 1-12 three times more.
St count on each side of marker as follows:
43 sts at end of 1st rep; 61 sts at end of 2nd rep; 79 sts after 3rd rep; 97 sts after 4th rep.




Border
Rows 1-6: Rep as above.
Row 7: K3, yo, k2, *k2, yo, ssk, k2* to 5 sts before marker, k4, yo, k1, sl marker, k1, yo, k5, rep between * to 4 sts before end, k1, yo, k3
Row 9: K3, yo, k4, *k2 tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1* to 6 sts before marker, k5, yo, k1, sl marker, k1, yo, k6, rep between * to 6 sts before end, k3, yo, k3
Row 11: K3, yo, k5, k2 tog, yo, *k3, yo, sk2p, yo* to 12 sts before center, k3, yo, ssk, k6, yo, k1, sl marker, k1, yo, k6, k2 tog, yo, rep between * to 13 sts before end k3, yo, ssk, k5, yo, k3
Row 12: K3, yo, p to last 3 sts, yo, k3

Rep these 12 Rows once more.
St count on each side of marker as follows: 115 sts after 1st rep; 133 sts after 2nd rep.



Hem
Row 1: K3, yo, k to 1 st before marker, yo, k1, sl marker, k1, yo, k to last 3 sts, yo, k3
Row 2 (WS): K 3, yo, p to last 3 sts, yo, k3 - 136 sts ea side of marker
Rows 3 and 4: Rep Rows 1 and 2 - 139 sts ea side of marker
Row 5: Rep Row 1 - 141 sts ea side of marker.
Row 6: K3, yo, k to last 3 sts, yo, k3 - 142 sts ea side of marker
Rows 7 and 8: Rep Rows 1 and 2 - 145 sts ea side of marker
Row 9 (Eyelet Row): K3, yo, *k2tog, yo* to marker, sl marker, *k2tog, yo* to last 3 sts, yo, k3
Row 10: K3, p to last 3 sts, k3 (no increases made)
Row 11: K3, k2tog, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sl marker, k2 tog, k to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3
Row 12: K3, p2tog, p to 2 sts before marker, p2tog, sl marker, p2tog, p to last 5 sts, p2tog, k3

BO loosely, using larger needle if necessary.



Finishing

Wet shawl and block before hemming.
Fold work on eyelet row to form picot edge and slip stitch hem in place.

Hand Knitted Baby Cardigan

Super easy to make!
Available for purchase HERE

Knit a Cabled Purse

A Great pattern!

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Approximately 10” across x 10” high (Not including strap)

MATERIALS3 Hanks BERROCO ULTRA ALPACA (100 grs), #6285 Oceanic Mix
Straight knitting needles, sizes 10 (6.00 mm) and 10 1/2 (7.00 mm)
Crochet hook, size 3.50 mm (E)
1 Cable needle (cn)
One 1 1/2” button

NOTE
There are no gauge requirements for this project.

STITCH GLOSSARY
CB4
Sl 2 sts to cn and hold in BACK, k2, then k2 from cn

CABLE PATTERN (Multiple of 10 sts + 4)
Row 1 (RS): K1, * k2, p2, k4, p2, rep from * across, end k3.
Row 2: K1, k the k sts and p the p sts as they face you to last st, end k1.
Row 3: K1, * k2, p2, CB4, p2, rep from * across, end k3.
Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Rep these 4 rows for Cable Pat.

FRONT
With larger straight needles, using 2 strands of yarn held tog, cast on 44 sts. Work even in Cable Pat for 8”, end on RS. Bind off, decreasing 12 sts across.

BACK
Work same as front for 8”, end on WS. Knit the next row, decreasing 8 sts across – 36 sts. Knit 1 row more.
Flap: Follow Chart until 22 rows have been completed, end on WS – 22 sts. Bind off.

STRAP/GUSSET
With smaller straight needles, using 2 strands of yarn held tog, cast on 9 sts.
Row 1 (RS): K1, * p1, k1, rep from * across.
Row 2: P1, * k1, p1, rep from * across. Rep these 2 rows until piece measures 50”, end on WS. Bind off in ribbing.

FINISHING
Sew cast-on and bound-off ends of Strap/Gusset tog being careful not to twist. Placing seam at center of lower edge, sew side edges of Strap/Gusset to lower and side edges of back and front leaving remaining edge free for strap. Sew side edges of strap tog forming a tube.
Edging: With RS facing, using crochet hook and 2 strands of yarn held tog, beg at side, work in Reverse sc around seam joining gusset and front of bag, working through double thickness, then across top of bag, join with a sl st in first sc. Fasten off. Work in same manner around seam joining gusset and back of bag, then around outer edge of flap, join with a sl st in first sc. Fasten off. Fold flap down, then work in Reverse sc across fold, working through double thickness of flap and bag. Fasten off.

Tassels (Make 4): Cut one 8” long strand of yarn and one 12” long strand of yarn. Wrap yarn multiple times around a 3” long piece of cardboard. Cut the lower end to free wrapped strands. Tie the center of strands with 8” long strand. Fold strands in half over tie and wrap 12” long strand around all strands 1” down from top. Tie and draw ends into center of tassel. With crochet hook, join single strand of yarn in top of first tassel, make a chain 18” long, join in top of second tassel. Fasten off. Repeat with third and fourth tassels. Tie one chain around each side of strap as in photo. With crochet hook, join single strand of yarn in WS of flap edging 3/4” to the left of center. Make a chain 1 1/2” long, then join in WS of flap edging 3/4” to the right of center forming buttonloop. Sew button to front of bag under buttonloop.

you can find this here!

Free Knitting Patterns

Free Knitting Patterns


I am always on the look out for new knitting patterns so here is a list of some of the sites i came across that have FREE patterns!

Knitting pattern central 
Knitting on the net
Craft town
Vintage knitting patterns
Little Cotton Rabbits

There are lots more but these are my favourites. 

If the patterns are not for commercial use please respect the owners wishes!

Knitting Cables

Knitting Cables

Easy instructions for cable - i found this on a great site Knitting cables for dummies

The simple technique of cabling (crossing one group of stitches over another) lends itself to many interpretations in knitting. It's easy to do, you can make all kinds of interesting and imaginative cable patterns. All it takes is a little patience and practice.

You can make any kind of cable by suspending (holding) a number of stitches on a cable needle (cn) while you knit that same number of stitches from the LH needle. Then you knit the suspended stitches either by returning them to the LH needle and knitting them or by knitting them straight from the cable needle. This process of knitting stitches out of order enables you to cross stitches, creating cables. Whether you're making simple or intricate cables, all you're doing is crossing stitches. Easy, right?

Standard or rope cables are the most basic cables. They generally cross stitches predictably up a single column of stitches. You can make a rope cable over almost any even number of stitches from two to twelve — or more.

If you want to make a cable that looks like it's twisting to the left, you hold your suspended stitches in front of your work while you knit from the LH needle.
If you want to make a cable that twists to the right, hold the suspended stitches in back.


To try a 6-stitch left-twisting cable, cast on 14 stitches and then follow these steps:

1. Work Row 1 (RS): P4, k6, p4.
The first and last k4 (knit four) stitches make up the background fabric for your cable. The six stitches in the middle are where you'll form your cable stitches.

2. Work Row 2: K4, p6, k4.

3. Work Row 3: P4, k6, p4. (same as row 1).

4. Work Row 4: k4, p6, k4 (same as row 2).

5. Work Row 5, the turning row: P4, sl 3 sts to cn and hold in front (see Figure 1a), k3 from LH needle (see Figure 1b), k3 from cn (see Figure 1c), p4.
6. Work Row 6: K4, p6, k4 (same as Row 2).
Instead of knitting stitches directly from the cable needle, you may prefer to return the suspended stitches to the LH needle before you knit them. Try both ways and use whichever technique is more comfortable to you.
When you suspend stitches on the cable needle, let the cable needle dangle down in front of your work, giving the yarn a slight tug to keep it taut (you don't need to close the gap).

7. Repeat Steps 1 through 6 and watch your stockinette stitches become a cabled rope.
When you work cables, you go back and forth from purl stitches to knit stitches. From a knit to a purl stitch, bring your yarn between the needles to the front before you make the next stitch. From a purl to a knit stitch, bring your yarn between the needles to the back before you make the next stitch.
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